This is why people are protesting in Paris against Shein opening its first physical shop in the city

The BHV department store in the heart of Paris has become the focal point of a protest against fast-fashion giant Shein. The beloved, iconic 19^th-century building is home to a new physical store for the ecommerce retailer, its first in France and the world.

While Shein has tried to tout the benefits of opening its nearly 10,800-square-foot location on the sixth floor of BHV for other retailers in the department store and the 50 jobs that it has created, it has caused backlash from politicians and citizens. They criticize its business model, which they say has been harmful to French high streets across the nation.

Shein, founded in China in 2012 but now headquartered in Singapore, has experienced meteoric growth over the past five years. What started as a shopping trend among young fashionistas, had over 27 million monthly users in France between February and July this year according to Reuters.

“Shame on Shein” say protesting Parisians

While the idea of Shein opening a store in Paris already had people incensed, the company found itself under even more intense fire just days before debuting its first brick-and-mortar store after the discovery of child-like sex dolls advertised on its website. The revelation triggered a judicial investigation and threats from the finance minister to ban the company if it happens again.

The company called it a “malfunction” of its governance and processes, adding that it will “full cooperate” with French authorities. Furthermore, the company stated it has sanctioned the sellers and implemented a full ban on the sale of sex dolls.

Shein business model bad for environment and workers

Much of the criticism of Shein has focused on the retailer’s ultra-fast fashion business model. Products are shipped directly to customers in 150 countries straight from factories in China.

The company has faced criticism over the working conditions in those factories, excessive overtime for workers and allegations of forced labor being used in its supply chain. In its 2023 sustainability and social impact report published last year, it admitted to finding two cases of child labor at suppliers, something the company says it has remedied.

Then there is the environmental impact of the business from overproduction and pollution as shoppers buy as many as 100 of the extremely cheap items per month. Activists say that the fabric of its apparel is of such low quality that it cannot be recycled and that the dyes used to color them are toxic.

France takes measures to control harms from ultra-fast fashion

The company’s marketing strategy, which people opposed to Shein say is getting people hooked on overconsumption, has drawn scrutiny from the French government. Lawmakers in France approved legislation which if implemented would impose fines on fast- and ultra-fast-fashion companies that don’t meet certain environmental criteria.

It could also impose an advertising ban on ultra-fast fashion companies like Shein and Temu for uploading more than 1,000 new products per day on their platforms. Shein post as many 7,200 new products on its website each day.

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